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Pushing back against feel-good media which emphasizes happy laborers “in matching colorful ethnic costumes and iconic bamboo hats,” employing “traditional manual techniques passed down for generations,” this collection of papers by more than a dozen scholars examines the way Chinese food production has changed dramatically since the mid-ninteenth century.
Historians, sociologists, anthropologists, and other academics examine a range of topics, including
The change in millet’s social status, from food of the destitute to a sought-after, culturally important grain
Similarly, the evolution of soy sauce from elite food to ubiquity
The emergence of domestic cookbooks and female culinary authorities in the twentieth century, subverting traditions of male gourmands
The spread of Japanese foodways in China, and of Chinese foodways in Peru
Chapters include endnotes. There is also a list of recommended works for further reading, which runs to several hundred titles.
Paperback. Black-and-white photographs.